Learn to Dance - Learn to Sew

Not long after I started belly dancing I discovered three fundamental principles of costuming: (i) costumes are expensive, (ii) no matter how high the quality, constant repairs to the beading and sequins is required, and (iii) some things (e.g. great historic replicas) can not be bought.  It was out of  necessity that I began beading and sewing.  My friends noted my new sewing skills and would comment "I didn't know you liked to sew."  My response was, "I don't, its just a basic principal of belly dancing.  Someday I will write a book about it and the book will be titled Learn to Dance - Learn to Sew."  With my time engaged in belly dancing and costuming, the book is not forthcoming, however, I can share some of my ideas in an abbreviated manner by way of this writing.   

 Terms Defined

 Beading

 Rhinestones

 Sequins

 Fabric

 Make Historic Costumes

 Make a Bedleh

 Patterns

 Sewing Tips

 Accessories

 Tips From Desert Moon Dance

Pictured above is a beladi dress. Arleah and
a seamstress made Desert Moon's beladi costumers

Middle Eastern Clothing Terms

Assuit or tulle bi telli – Silver tinsel thread woven and forged into a cotton net background material. Also spelled *asyut,* (asuit, assuit, assyut, asiut) named after the town in Egypt, where some think it originated.  

Bedleh – In Arabic, this literally means "suit." It refers to the cabaret-style beaded bra/belt/skirt costume that a belly dancer wears for a performance.

Caftan or Kaftan – A long Oriental design tunic tied at the waist.

Thobe – Loose fitting full length gown worn by men and women.

Thobe Al Nashl - Also known as a Khaleegi dress and worn for gulf dances is heavily embroidered made of finest silk or chiffon. It is a wide rectangular over-garment, which falls in delicate folds when worn. In Qatar, favorite colors used for this garment are red and purple, green is reserved for weddings.

Beading

General

Whether repairing the fringe on a Bedleh or making fringe from scratch, basic beading skills are required.  Visit the following web sites:
 

Beadtown.com  –  This site shows various bead shapes and sizes,  several bead stitches used for making bead designs, and how to attach beadwork to backing.  A large selection of beads are illustrated and may be purchased on-line.

Beadwranlger's Online Shopping  –  This site  describes the qualities of different types of beads.  A large selection of beads are illustrated and may be purchased on-line.

Beltana's Beads  –  This site shows several beading patterns that work well for decorating costumes or making jewelry. 

Bob's Beading Tutorial Pages  –  This site offers some good  basic information on stringing beads such as terminating a strand of beads, knotting between beads and endless loop stringing.

Northwind Designs  –  This article describes how to add beads or  a beaded pattern to fabric.    

Purchasing Beads

Before you buy beads consider what type of costume you are making.  Is it folkloric or a modern bedleh?  Seed beads, crystal beads and rhinestones are appropriate for contemporary costuming.  For that historic look, you may want to learn more about ancient beads before purchasing.  Articles and pictures are available at the "Bead Site - Center for Bead Research."
(See  "Ancient Beads: Middle East.") Before purchasing beads, know what size you need.  Several bead sizes are pictured at:
 

Land of Odds  –  Size comparison chart of seed bead and bugle beads.   

There are a large number of websites where you can view and purchase beads.  The prices are often amazingly  less than available at retail stores.  The following are a few of the web sites where you can purchase beads.

Beadella  –  Select and order a large variety of beads from this website.  Beadella carries a large selection of unusual beads including silver beads great for folkloric or historic costuming.  They also carry gold and silver plated seed beads. 

Beads by Mail –  Offering gemstone beads, metal beads, glass beads, and some one-of-a-kind beads.   (Be patient, some of the pictures are slow loading).   

Bead Studio –  Vintage beads, seed beads, crystal beads, some metal beads and others.  

Beadworks –  Offering gemstone beads, metal beads, glass beads, and crystal beads.  

Beadwrangler's Online Shopping –  This site  describes the qualities of different types of beads.  A large selection of beads are illustrated and may be purchased on-line.

BJ's Craft Supplies  –  Select and order a large variety of beads from this website

Da Bead Babe  –  Advertising one of the largest online bead catalogs.

Embellishments  –  Offering metal, wood, and crystal beads that are all pictured on this easy to navigate website. 

Eastern Findings –  Specializes in metal beads.    

Lady Bug Beads  –  Offering Seed Beads, Semi-precious stones Bali and Thai silver, Swarovski crystals, Czech beads, Pearls, Shells,  Bone Beads, glass beads and  gold and silver colored metal beads.  You won't  find all of these on line but if you are in the St.  Louis area you can visit the store at 7616 Big Bend Blvd.

Shipwreck Beads –  Advertising "the worlds largest selection of beads"  and we believe this statement may very well be true.  Our dancers have purchased beads from Shipwreck on more than one occasion. The selection is so large, that we recommend purchasing a catalogue for selection, rather than trying to browse the web site.  The catalogue may be purchased online.  Except for the catalogue, there is a minimum order price of $25.00 so we pool our orders when large quantifies aren't required.  WARNING!  If an item is backordered you won't be charged and you won't receive it; EVER!  To obtain an item that is backordered you must reorder it.  This creates difficulties if you are matching colors of beads to fabrics or matching a variety of beads.  I suggest checking on availability before placing any order.

Tribal to the Max  –  Hard to find antique beads and jewelry components.

      Rhinestones      
 

If you are making a costume you may want to add rhinestones.  The following companies offers a large selection designed specifically for attaching to fabric.
 

Beads etc.  –  Offers sew on rhinestones, including rhinestone chains,  in many colors, shapes and sizes. 

Beads etc.  –  Offers sew on rhinestones, including rhinestone chains,  in many colors, shapes and sizes. 

Dreamtime Creations  –  A huge selection of rhinestones. 

MJTrim  –  Sew on rhinestones in many colors  

Jones Trim Supply  –  Offers sew on rhinestones in many colors, shapes and sizes.  Also offering appliqués, bugle beads, beaded fringe and sequins.  

Murielle Roy & Co.  –  This company carries a large selection of rhinestones and also has chiffon, lace, appliqués, and trim.  

Performers Edge  –  Rhinestones in 50 different colors. 

Rhinestones by Rhinestonz.co.nz  –  Every kind of rhinestone for your costuming needs.   

Rhinestones Unlimited  –  Wholesale supplier to the performing arts industry.    

Trim & Trinkets  –  This company carries a large selection of rhinestones and also has appliqués and beaded fringe.   

Performers Edge  –  Offering rhinestones in 50 colors and large variety of sizes.  In addition, Performers Edge offers banded rhinestones by the yard as well as fringe and appliqués. 

   Sequins
 

Learning to sew sequins onto material is required for costume repairs.  Another necessity is learning to locate the sequins of specific colors.  Try
the following websites to learn some general sequins techniques and also to locate sequins for purchasing.
 

Jan's Guide to Sequins  –  This online article describes how to attach sequins to fabric. (slow loading) 

Cartwright's Sequins  –  Select and order a large variety of sequins from this website.  Cartwright's also sells beads

Jones Trim Supply  –  Offers one of the best selections of sequins on the internet that I have found.  

Fabric
 

For historic or folkloric costumes, you are always safe with cotton.  Silk was also used (although without current mass production it looked different).  For modern belly dance style costumes (skirts and harem pants) there is a large selection of fancy fabrics of both natural and manmade materials.  If you are fortunate to live in St. Louis you can visit Antols.  Many of the belly dancers I know from St. Louis believe this is the best  fabric store in the St. Louis area for costume fabrics. Antol's also carries a great selection of beads, fringe, appliqués and other items for your costuming needs.  If you don't live in St. Louis you can shop on line:

Antol's Fabric  –  Fabric glossary and gallery of fabrics that you can buy online.  You can also order fabric samples.

The following is a list of other online companies that carry fabrics appropriate for costumes.
 

Associated Fabrics Corporation  –  Advertising "theatrical fabrics," this company offers metallic fabric, satin, taffeta, lace, netting and accessories.    Also offering sequin trims.

Costumer's Quarterly  –  Offering a wide variety of fabrics appropriate for modern belly dance costumes (bedleh) as well as rhinestones, acrylic jewels, sequins and other trims.  

Denver Fabric  –  Offering dancewear fabric including liquid lame, sequin fabric and glitter fabric.    Also has some beaded fringe and a coin fringe.

Fabric Club  –  Offering a wide variety of fabrics appropriate for modern belly dance costumes (bedleh) as well as linen and cotton appropriate for historic and folkloric costuming.

Laceland  –  Offering Lycra Fabrics, Notions, Bra Cups, Underwires, Elastics, Sewing Books, Sewing Patterns, Bridal Laces, Pageant Motifs.  

Lunn Fabrics Limited  –  Featuring over 1,200 fabrics including some that are unusual or one of a kind.  

SilkZone –  You guessed it; silk.  

Sequins International –  Offering sequin fabric and a large selection of sequin trim.  

Spandex house –  Offering an assortment of fabrics appropriate for costuming. I particularly like the sequin fabric.   New 

Make a Historic or Folk Costume

Belly Dance Costuming Materials (Cost Less Costumes)  –  Costume jewels and rhinestones, coins, metal adornments, tassels, bells, belt chain, costume mirrors and a variety of beads.  Also offers glue, tools and clasps.  

Happenstance Creations  –  India bindi bells in black, gold and silver.

Saroyan Mastercrafts  –  Coins.

JDR Brazilian Elegance  –  For American Tribal Costumes.  Love that mirrored material.  At JDR you can purchase Shisha glass as well as learn how to embroider it onto fabric.  

Hate to sew?  Try ironing.

Sues' Sparklers –  This company carries iron on sequins, crystals and appliqués.

Make a Bedleh

While individuals that are truly talented (or daring) may choose to start from scratch, a good alternative is to buy a base bra and belt set.  These bras and belts come covered in sequins, but with no other ornamentation or fringe.  Sets are priced for less than $100.  Base bras and belts are available at:

Shop Egypt -  See this entire page (as of December 2000) two styles were pictured.  Sets come in red, green, blue, black, silver and gold. 

Seventh Veil -  Australian merchandiser advertises base bra sets in various colors

Turquoise International -  Colors and sizes not shown.

Aliah's Closet  –  Several different types of fringe are pictured and the prices vary based on the length of the fringe. 

Atira's Fashions  –  Offers fringe with 4", 8" and 12" in length in a large variety of colors.  

Magic City Costumes  –  This fringe is sewn on to ribbon that can be cut without losing beads.  Some interesting beads are available on the fringes pictured.  
 

Premade fringe is also available at the following websites:
 

Cybertrims

MJtrims –  Offers the widest selection of fringe I have found on the web with numerous lengths, designs and materials (e.g. beads, pearls, crystal, pailette).  Also offers a large selection of trims including jacquards, lace, beaded trim and iron on embroideries.  

Trim & Trinkets

Get creative and make a one of a kind costume.  Consider using the beaded fringe that decorates the bottom of Victorian lampshades.  The fringe available at this web site would make a fantastic costume and the price is comparable to fringe made especially for dance costumes.
 

Beaded Fringe @ Victoria's Mall

Ganesha Bazaar - look for "costume making supplies"  

Dress Up Buttons and Trims - In addition to fabric fringe and tassel fringe,  Dress Up offers other fringes that would be appropriate for finishing costume edges and for headpieces.    

Belly Dance Costuming Materials (Natures Gems)  –  In addition to coins, Natures Gems has sew on rhinestones and other items appropriate for making a contemporary costume.  

Sequins International –  Offering a beautiful selection of sequin trim.  

Sequin, rhinestone and beaded designs look great on Bedleh bras, belts and skirts.  However, few of us have the time, sewing experience or artistic talent to add these to our costumes.  An alternative is appliqués.  An appliqué is a piece of material cut into a design that is already covered with sequins or beads.  All you need to do is sew the appliqué to your Bedleh top, belt or skirt.  Here are some web sites where appliqués may be purchased:
 

Cybertrims -  Cybertrims has a very good selection of appliqués that are covered in either rhinestones or sequins. 

Galaxy Trim -  Offers a large selection of appliqués, however there is a minimum purchase order of $100 for the first order.   

Trim & Trinkets -  A nice selection of appliqués that are covered in either rhinestones or sequins. 

Sequin and rhinestone trims can be used for finishing or decorating the edges of your Bedleh bra or skirt. If the trim is wide enough (e.g. 3") it can be used on the top of a skirt and a separate belt can be omitted.  The following is the only on line source I have found for purchasing 3" sequin trim. 

 Aladdin's Lamp Theatrical Supplies -  Many sizes of sequin trim and  "elegant beaded trims."   

Patterns

Many patterns are available for Harem pants, blouses, vests, Caftans, and skirts.  There are web sites where you can purchase patterns and several web sites where you can get free patterns. 
 

Art of Middle Eastern Dance - This page of Shira.net includes instructions and patterns for several costuming items including veils and gauntlets.  

Beaded Tassel    

Beladi Dress -  Instructions for making a  folkloric style Beladi dress. 

Caftan -  Instructions for making a simple Caftan.  (A Caftan is a must have clothing article to wear over your costume when not performing)

Choli -  Instructions for making choli top.  

Celebrations Belly Dance -  Instructions for making several costuming items including a circular skirt, panel skirt and hankerchief skirt.  

Ghawazee Coat -  Instructions for making a Ghawazee coat.  The one I  wear (see StJohnpic.htm) is a more recent 1800's style and is hip length.  

Harem Pants  

Khaleegy Thobe   

MidEast Ethnic Patterns  -  Offers instructions for making a Ghawazee  coat, blouse, harem pants and hip belt.    

Middle Eastern Dance Association of New Zealand  -  Offers instructions for making a circular skirt. 

Sheikani - Instructions for an overskirt, circular cape, circular skirt, and harem pants.  

Turco-Persian Pants - Instructions and a pattern.  

Artira's Fashions - If you are serious about making costumes I strongly recommend purchasing a catalog of Atira's Costume Patterns or a pattern  that is available at this site. 

B.D. Patterns  –  A nice selection of patterns including some for cabaret costumes.  

Choli Pattern

Folkwear Patterns  –  A limited selection of patterns for easy to make traditional clothing in the Caravan/Ethnic collection.